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Chinking is the gritty, mortar-like material seen between courses of logs in many log homes. Modern Chinking is a flexible, mortar-mortar textured sealant. Chinking can be a necessity or simply an esthetic addition to a log home's appearance. Before we discuss how to chink your home, let's cover who needs it, what it does, and what it is made of.
Many of the hand-crafted log homes not built in a scribe-fit style are referred to as chinkers or chink style log homes. Several milled log manufacturers also offer log packages that require chinking. These are homes that are purposely built leaving gaps between the courses of logs. The gaps are usually created by inserting small spacer blocks that help hold the logs apart. At the corners the logs are held by the notches (usually round or dovetailed notches). When the log shell is erected at your site generally a backer rod (or equivalent) is pushed between the courses of logs, (one strip to the inside face of the logs, another to the outside face), and then a chinking compound is applied on the interior and exterior.
Chinking
Coverage Estimator
You may calculate gallons needed by finding the feet per gallon and dividing your lineal feet by that number. Although this chart is rounded up where needed, it does not include waste. Keep in mind that the depth is an average depth across the joint. If your estimations are generally short, check to see that you use average joint depth. Chart courtesy of Sashco, manufacturers of Log Jam chinking. |
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Quite simply, chinking stops air and moisture infiltration into your home. With the backer rod, it helps insulate your home as well. Chinking can also be a design feature of your home, often contrasting with the color of the logs.
Traditionally, chinking was a mixture of clay, lime, and sand with variations based on what was locally available. Today we use an acrylic, elastic compound that adheres to the logs and can stretch and contract as the logs settle and move seasonally. Old fashioned chinking often pulls away from logs and cracks, allowing water and insects to enter the logs. (This is due to it's being non-elastic).
Chinking, (or caulking), can also be used to seal any gaps between logs and notches in scribe-fit style handcrafted and milled log packages that have "gapped" for whatever reason.
Whether or not you are chinking a new or existing log home, you will need to think about the finish that is on your home, or that you will be applying, to make sure it will be compatible with the chinking. Both the chinking and finish you apply to your home represent an investment of time (yours or a hired contractor's) and money (yours) and omitting this step can cost you both. Call us to verify that the combination you have chosen will work together.
Chinking can be applied in a variety of ways, listed here from lowest to highest tech:
No method is intrinsically better than the others - it depends on the effort you want to put into the project, the time you have, and how you or your hired contractor prefer to work. The method most of our customers (homeowners and contractors) use is the manual bulk loading gun for small to mid sized projects. This allows you to buy chinking in 5 gallon buckets (cheaper than buying it in tubes) and the bulk loading gun has a variety of nozzle widths available. We carry these guns for purchase.
Whatever method you use, you will most likely be going back over your work with a spatula or foam brush to clean up any mistakes, to flatten the chinking out, and to make sure it is adhering to the logs properly.
Some people start their chinking project by purchasing 25-50 of the inexpensive foam brushes in a size slightly Keep your tools moist with a misting of water, (some prefer to use isopropyl alcohol or a 50/50 combination of water/isopropol alcohol), to prevent sticking. Since modern acrylic chinking is water based, clean up is easy if you drip any chinking on your logs. Just make sure you keep a sponge and a container of clean water nearby and correct any errors right away. Remember to cleanup before the chinking sets up.
Gather all the materials you're going to need.
Chinking needs to be applied about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick.
Too thin and there is not enough to adhere properly to the logs and you may see tears or rips in the chinking.
Too thick and the chinking is wasted and will take too long to cure. Additionally, too thick and the chinking may not set up properly. This is particularly true in colder weather. The chinking may go through several freeze/thaw cycles before setting up properly. Eventually the water part of the chinking evaporates and the latex part of the chinking didn't set up as intended. This may lead to a slumping or possibly "spongy" feeling to the chinking. Basically, don't put it on too thick, and watch the temperature when applying and during the curing process.
Cleanup is with soap and water if done immediately. Protect unused containers of chinking from freezing.
If you are applying new chinking over the old mortar style chinking the process is similar. You will need to remove any loose or crumbling chinking and make sure the logs are clean. The use of duct tape (or similar "bond breaker") over the old mortar allows the new chinking to move properly while still adhering to the log below and above.
Chinking comes in several colors and you can choose whether you want the chinking to blend in or contrast with the color of your logs. Color swatches are available. We carry Sashco Log Jam™ , Perma-Chink® , and Weatherall® Chinking. Check out the chinking department in our online catalog.